HOW TO BUY SKI BOOTS©
by Dr. Robert Scott Steinberg
Ski boots can be a PAIN! What can
you do about it? Find a ski specialty shop and a good boot fitter.
THE BOOT FITTER
Ask for an experienced boot fitter. He must have an understanding of
anatomy and biomechanics (movement of joints) to recognize your specific foot type and
match it to the correct boot last (shape). If your bootfitter is also a PSIA ski
instructor, so much the better. He should ask you your height, weight, age, athletic
ability, how much do you ski, and where do you ski. These questions help him evaluate your
aggressiveness, ability, and approach to skiing. This information is critical for matching
your interest and ability to your equipment selection Boots come generic in shape and need
to be modified to your unique foot.
THE RIGHT BOOT
You want a boot that will be comfortable, of course, and that will help you
improve your skiing. The boot should be adequate for now, and work well as you improve.
Beginners, low intermediates, and non-aggressive skiers need a fairly soft forward flexing
boot. These will be more "forgiving" by not transmitting all your mistakes to
your skis. An aggressive or advanced skier needs a stiffer boot that will provide
"sensitivity" to movement changes. From the information you provide, your fitter
will be able to choose the best performance model. It used to be true, that if you were
looking for comfort, your first choice would have been a "rear-entry" boot. That
is not true any more.. Why? Because front-entry overlap boots have been significantly
improved. There has been an upsurge in their sales over the last five years due to the
development of more moldable liner materials. Front-entry boots perform better because the
mechanics of the boot far more accurately matches the biomechanical movement of the foot
and ankle.
THE SIZING
Your boot fitter will use a few different sizing devices to
determine your approximate boot size. This will give him a place to start. The next step
is important, he should remove the liner from the shell and have you place your foot into
the shell. With your toes touching the front end of the shell, he will check to see how
much room you have behind your heel (Shell length). There should be just less then one
inch for recreational skiers, even less for more aggressive, accomplished skiers. Next he
will check for side to side movement in the forefoot area (Shell width). If you buy your
boots too big, the liner will not take a mold of your foot. Then, after a few days of
skiing, your feet will begin to "rattle around", requiring you to buckle your
boots tighter. But, that will not prove to be tight enough either, so you buckle them even
tighter. Now you have created a new problem; a boot that is too narrow. Presto! Your feet
are ice cold, and are painfully cramped. If your boots are the correct size, there is one
other reason they would feel loose; collapsing arches. This is caused by excessive
pronation. Usually your boot fitter will recognize this when he first inspects your foot,
but sometimes it is not that obvious. If this is your problem, custom insoles, or
sportsmedicine ski orthoses is the answer. Ski orthoses should only be gotten from a
doctor who is also trained in the mechanics of skiing and has many years of boot fitting
experience. These devices cost between $50 and $225. A custom insole will keep your foot
properly centered and somewhat supported in the boot. The more expensive orthoses gives
full support to the foot, and also corrects abnormal foot, leg and knee alignment
problems. This in turn prevents sore feet, ankles and shins, and helps to prevent
excessive knee strain. Skiing biomechanics are completely different from running and
walking (gait cycle) biomechanics. For this reason, never put your running or walking
orthoses (if you have them) in your ski boots. They are balanced for gait cycle
biomechanics.
THE "TRY ON"
Be sure to put on a pair of light weight SKI socks. (The best I have tried are
"Dri-Stride" by Dahlgren.) Most agree, thinner is better. Thick socks will crush
the foot. A properly fitted boot will go a long way in keeping your feet warm. (But, if
your feet are cold no matter what you do, then there are some very good boot heaters
("Hotronics") that can be installed with little difficulty.)
Now, put the boots on. At first, your
toes will most likely touch the front end. If the boots are the correct size, this is to
be expected! Buckle the boots and press your knees forward. You will find that your toes
pull back from the end. Be patient. Your toes will have a lot more room in 10-15 minutes
THE "BREAK-IN"
Wear your boots for 10-15 minutes, then take them off and walk around the store
for a while. Why? Because under the pressure of a new boot your circulation dwindles and
your feet will tingle and swell. When you take the boots off circulation quickly returns.
Do this two or three times during the fitting. (Take a minimum of an hour.) Move your
knees back and forth, and side to side, to simulate skiing. If you stand still your feet
will go to "sleep". Each time you put the boots back on they should feel roomier
and more comfortable. During the break-in, the boots will form a deeper heel pocket, thus
pulling your toes even farther away from the front of the boot. You should notice that
your toes have more room, yet the rest of the boot still feels quite tight. At the end of
an hour, pressure points will be obvious. Tight spots are to be expected until your foot
has time to press the moldable liner away from any bony prominences. Your boot fitter can
make the necessary minor adjustments, but should refrain from making major ones until you
have had a chance to ski. Go to a local area to test them before heading 1000 miles away
from you boot fitter. - or take him along! Remember, your boots must not feel loose when
you leave the store. They will "grow" larger as they mold to your foot during
skiing.
The last step will be for the fitter
to adjust the cuff alignment. This allows the boot cuff to match your leg angle as it
meets the ankle. If your fitter determines that your legs are fairly straight, you might
not need this feature, but if you have a more pronounced problem, cuff alignment and
canting the ski might be necessary.
CANTING
A word of caution: Canting of skis can be tricky. There has been
renewed interest in canting. A recently published article suggests canting can be a
"cure" for most performance problems. This is just not so, and has been causing
more problems then it has solved. A very careful accessment is required in the ski shop,
and sometimes also on snow.
Now, go skiing. It will take at least 4-6 days of
skiing to break in the liner. Return to your boot fitter as necessary. He would be
surprised if you did not need adjustments! Good luck!
Dr. Robert Scott Steinberg is board certified in
medicine and surgery of the foot and ankle. He is a surgical instructor and Director of
Podiatric Medical Education at Norwegian-American Hospital in Chicago. He maintains a
practice in Hoffman Estates, Illinois. In addition to his 23 years experience as a
podiatrist, Dr. Steinberg has been custom fitting ski boots for over 19 years and is
recognized by "Ski Magazine" as one of the country’s best ski boot fitters.
He is a member of PSIA (Rocky Mountain and Central Divisions) and was a consultant to the
Vail/Beaver Creek Ski School for three seasons, doing research on the biomechanics of
skiing as it relates to ski boot fitting. He is currently the director of boot fitting
services at Aspen Ski and Patio, Barrinngton, Illinois, and a consultant to Kenny's Double
Diamond Ski Shop and The Double Diamond/Jeannie Thoren Ski Clinic, in Vail, Colorado. If
you have any questions: e-mail: doc@footsportsdoc.com; (847) 934-3777, or FAX (847)
991-1009. © 1985-1999 |